Step 6: Some people freak out when they see the pen color but don’t worry, it won’t be there on your final product. Step 13: While doing so, you must use different colors of threads to make it look beautiful and similar to the picture. Also, try to do small stitches, and it may require your concentration. Step 15: Take the design out from the embroidery hoop as you complete the entire thing. Cut around the picture in the same pattern as the design. Step 10: Take the embroidery hoop, and after that, you must place a cloth in it. Make sure you do not pull the fabric in the hoop too tight. It’s because the fabric will come out when you want to separate the hoop.

With this stuff you can embroider stretchy fabrics like T-shirts and baby onesies (no extra stabilizer needed). You can embroider dark fabrics. You can embroider nappy fabrics like velvet and terrycloth and fleece. You can embroider felt. Oh! How I love embroidering on felt! I LOVE LOVE LOVE using Heat & Bond Lite fusible adhesive on printable sheets, as opposed to the stuff you can buy by the bolt. It’s more expensive – yes – but it lets me skip over the tedious tracing step and jump right to the fun part of my appliqué project. That’s worth money to me. 🙂 I use it to stabilize stretchy fabrics when I appliqué on them. It just washes away – leaving no itchy stabilizer behind. While carrying out the process, a few things are there that you should keep in mind. If you do not avoid that, you won’t get the optimum result. Patti Lee, VP of Consumer Relations at Sulky of America, answers your questions all day, every day. She’s a true expert on Sulky products, so we asked Patti to share the 10 most common questions she receives about Sulky water-soluble stabilizers, including Solvy®, Super Solvy™, Ultra Solvy™ and Fabri-Solvy™. Here are the top 10 water-soluble stabilizer questions answered. Q: Why should I use a water-soluble stabilizer and where?Step 17: Sometimes, you may need to keep the cloth underwater until the fabri solvy comes out completely.

The stitching needs to be about the pattern or else the design you want, and you won’t get it. Also, it would help if you prefer doing small stitches to make it look attractive. Freezer paper also works this way when cutting out regular fabric, but I only use it on fairly small pieces – so small that I can’t use pattern weights. I use it for ALL my felt cutting. You print your pattern right on the sheets. You can print them with an inkjet or laser printer, or photocopy onto it. You can also trace onto it – but I hate tracing. I use this on everything I embroider. EVERYTHING. But it’s especially useful on problem fabrics. You know what I’m talking about – the ones that are really hard to transfer an image to.

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While stitching, you have to stitch both, and afterward, when it’s done, you can place it in water. Many people commit the mistake of stitching the fabric only. But it would help if you did both, so the design comes out properly.

Step 1: Here, you have to use small scraps of sulky on the project you wish to work on. Now you have to draw the pattern by keeping the piece of cloth over it.

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So we’ll skip forward to after the stitching is all done so you can see how this stuff actually dissolves… I use it most often to cut out felt pieces. I print the pattern pieces directly onto the freezer paper. (You can trace if you’re not as lazy as I am.) I iron the paper to the felt and then I cut the pieces out – cutting through the felt and the freezer paper at the same time. Since I label all my pieces it means I have a nice pile of labeled felt pieces, cut perfectly accurately, waiting for me to stitch them together. Awesome!

Step 2: Two ways are there to get the design on the fabric. One is by cutting a piece of stabilizer, putting the pattern over it, and then tracing using a hand and pencil. I usually put mine into the water upside down so any residue, and printer ink particles, can disperse to the bottom of the basin, but here it’s the right way up so you can see how the Fabri Solvy is beginning to curl and disappear …. Sewing professionals use it to get beautiful designs printed on the cloth. Suppose you want to get an image of your friends stitched on your t-shirt.

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A: Sometimes you just want to “paint” it onto a project: Dissolve one yard of Solvy (36 x 20 inches) or 1/2 yard of Super Solvy (18 x 20 inches) in 8 oz. of water. Brush liquid Solvy onto flimsy or sheer fabrics that are to be stitched. Do not use it on non-washable fabrics like velvet or silk. If you would like to inquire about the delivery fee for a specific item please call us on 02 6920 2238 (for International callers: +61 2 6920 2238) A: The two lighter weights, Solvy and Super Solvy, are perfect as a topper on napped fabrics like towels to keep the loops or piles from poking through stitching; to prevent stitches from getting lost in the fabric; and to enhance the clarity of fine lettering and detail stitching. This is true for knit fabrics, too.