Infinity Dodecahedron, Creative and Cool Infinite Dodecahedron Color Art Light Night Light, Spiral Space LED Light Adjustable Color Light, Furniture Decoration Table lamp Soft Dimmable Lighting (A)

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To do this, tape them to your desk or a piece of scrap wood, heat up the solder pad on the strip with the tip of your soldering iron, and push a small bead of solder onto the strip until you have a small mound of solder on the pad. Wait till the epoxy has set enough for you to remove the face trio from the construction aid, but is still slightly soft. The board distributes power correctly to the three LED strips meeting at each corner and also redirects the data line to the correct side. Whilst this works, [Hari] thought he could do a bit better, using butt-jointed PCBs as the frame material.

After a few prototype sketches, I came up with a design that could accommodate all 4 different types of corners by rotating and flipping the PCB. It may be useful to bend the wires in place with tweezers so that they are resting on the solder pads before heating and adding a little more solder. You'll definitely either want to use some slow setting epoxy or have someone on stand-by to help with this step. You can find all the files for the project at my Github here, and here (last link is for the Wemos control PCB). Note that if you want deviate from my code and run at higher brightness's, you'll need to modify the controller for 10A.You should also upgrade to a beefier switch (linked in supplies); there's room on the base for it, but you'll need to do some modification. This LED Infinity Dodecahedron Trance Table Lamp is a unique hyper-dodecahedron lamp that is made to impress. This is somewhat visible from the product image, and I just didn't look too closely, which is on me. The faces of the dodecahedron are laser cut from 1/8" or 3mm acrylic and are coated in one way mirror film.

PLA should be plenty strong enough for the dodecahedron, but if you want a similar finish to mine, you'll need to either sand everything or use some kind of epoxy coating. Like the base corner, the pad polarities are indicated by + and - with the center pads being for data. It is important to distribute the power evenly because if power is only injected at the beginning of the strip, the end experiences a noticeable voltage drop that degrades the LED color. I chose to use black filament, but this is up to you, these parts will only be visible in small areas on the inside, and black usually hides them pretty well.Personalised advertising may be considered a “sale” or “sharing” of information under California and other state privacy laws, and you may have a right to opt out. One way mirrors on the faces of the dodecahedron bounce the light from these LEDs around within the shape, creating an infinite space illusion within its walls.

BEFORE gluing any strips that have a data jump (see schematic), you need to first solder a long strip of wire from the end of the data line, and fold it back to the other side of the strip.The assembly steps and connections to the control board are the same as found in my Pixel Mask instructable here. For example, 1 is the beginning of the strip, so the section holds LEDs 1 - 7 (actually 0-6 in software, sorry! For pretty much all "infinity" polyhedra, the tricky part is connecting the LED strips at the polyhedron's corners. The LEDs use a daisy chain to transmit the data down a line so I had to make the data line act as one long string through all the LEDs.

Thread the cables from the power supply and your LEDs through the holes in the side of the box, and either tie them in a knot or clamp them in using the 3D printed bracket, this is to prevent the wires from being pulled out of the delicate electronics if someone trips over them. Skip on to the next step and begin soldering the corner PCBs in place, adding strips to the dodecahedron one by one as you go, following the guide.In other words, it appears as if the real, physical polyhedron is surrounded on all sides by phantom polyhedra of the same type.