Dry Degreasing for Precision Bicycle Parts. Blast Off’s sprayer deep-cleans and flushes dirt, grime, and grease While we didn’t specifically ask for readers’ grease and bike wash preferences, dozens of readers chimed in with recommendations for these products. So, if you’re looking for a good grease to use on your bike (please, not the chain!), it seems you can’t go wrong with Phil Wood Waterproof Grease or Park Polylube 1000. When you buy a bike from us you will get a free service at your nearest Bicycle Chain store within 6 weeks of taking delivery of your bike. Overall, competition among the top 10 (and beyond) was fairly close, demonstrating just how many great chain lube options are on the market today. And if none of these lubes are to your liking, try blending your own! In fact, a few of our survey respondents report doing just that. Warning from Uncle Al: “You must follow the application instructions if you want this stuff to work at its best. If you throw it on the chain just before you ride, it’ll attract dirt like any wet substance. Plan ahead and you’ll be amazed.” Is It Hype if It’s True?

ProGold – Lubricants, Cleaners, and Tools for Bicycle Maintenance

I was looking for something similar to WD40 dry lube, which is a mineral oil based dry lubricant. Very little dirt attracted. This is just the same if not better. I was looking for something easier to get at the moment than WD40. I asked bikebudgie if they thought it was just the same, but they tried to get me to buy wax or teflon so-called lube. No Way! I want something that really looks after my chain and doesn't just spray off in one ride. Since I put between 10,000 and 12,000 miles per year on my Cervelo, I want the chains (and drivetrain) to last as long as possible. To ensure this, I have come to only use ProLink. It has always performed excellent on all of my chains. I have tried most Combines a powerful cleaning solvent formula that is tough on grease yet safe on the hands. Solvent is integrated with industrial strength, super absorbent, dual-textured towels.

Prior to a training ride, I scrubbed the chain completely clean, then oiled with ProLink. 40 miles later, I put Results from wiping a clean chain with 40 miles on it. thoroughly clean the chain, (b) dry the chain with a soft cloth, and (c) apply a drop of ProLink to each link, both the top and the bottom of the chain. Do this before each ride (or as often as you can) and you will be able to achieve the most miles that your chain is capable of. Note: this is a concentrated degreaser and meant to be diluted with water. ProGold recommends 1 part degreaser with 3 parts water. After testing this on various items, my opinion is that this concentration depends on what you are cleaning.The other day, I went to put my bike in the SUV and noticed some crud all over one of the aluminum ‘mag’ wheels. Seemed to be a combination of either a dog or cat finding my wheel coupled with some road tar. I tested several other manufacturers products which claim to ‘foam away’ wheel dirt, but none worked like spraying a little full strength ProGold Degreaser+Wash and using one of their PRO Towels. After about 15 seconds of minimal elbow grease, the stain was reduced 90%. No other cleaner I tried even came close to removing this stain.After the training ride, I used this degreaser full strength spraying it directly on the dirty/greasy cassette. Since I was also using a brush dipped in water, this made for the perfect concentration. After a light spray-off from a hose, the cassette was very clean with 95% of the grease and crud removed.If using on the frame, I recommend using their 1:3 dilution. Take a clean towel, soak in water, lightly ring, then spray 2-3 squirts onto the wet towel. Ring the town out slightly and this will be the perfect concentration for your frame. So far, no paint has been harmed using this concentration This is the second product I tested and used. I thought why not clean the dirtiest part of the bike, the chain. DUE TO THE CURRENT HIGH DEMAND, DELIVERY TIME FOR BIKES IS 7-10 DAYS. ALL PARTS AND ACCESSORIES ARE STILL 1-2 DAYS.

ProLink Chain Lube Review - Road Bike Rider Cycling Site ProLink Chain Lube Review - Road Bike Rider Cycling Site

When you put ProLink on your chain after a ride and let it sit overnight, the next day the chain is relatively dry. Wipe it down with a clean rag, then head out. The drivetrain spins so easily that you almost feel like you can use one gear higher. Xtreme is more waterproof than ProLink and ideal for winter racing/training – road, cyclocross, MTB. Xtreme can also be used in dry road racing conditions as well, but since it is more expensive than ProLink, and offering nominal advantage in dry conditions, I recommend ProLink for all dry conditions and Xtreme in hard-use/wet environments. Out on the road is the real test. I have tested this lube in dry conditions, windy conditions, sand, rain, have ridden through mud, dirt, grit and gravel. I have hammered on flat time trials and pushed all kinds of gearing up steep hills, just to see ProLink is billed as a “metal friction reducer.” It comes with a lot of hype, claiming benefits like smoother, quieter shifting; preventing corrosion; repelling moisture; shedding dirt. But the thing is, our experience says it’s all true. The drivetrain stays clean — not as squeaky clean as with a dry lube like White Lightning, but it won’t make a mess on your pristine road machine.Now, grab your other bottle of lube, Finish Line’s wet chain lube (Phil’s oil also works fine but it’s double the cost with no noticeable benefit) and apply a thin stream of that to the chain. Get it fully coated, but you don’t need a gallon of the stuff. Just make sure the rollers and side plates are covered with a thin layer. Wipe off the excess, good to go.