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AD: Flavius Stilicho, famed general and guardian of the young emperor Honorius campaigns in the north, as recorded by Claudian in 400: “Then spoke Britannia……Stillicho defended me when I too was about to be destroyed by peoples across the frontier, and the Scots stirred up all Hibernia, and the sea foamed with the pull of their oars. Thanks to Stillichos attentions, I would not fear the spears and javelins of the Scots, nor quake before the Picts”. Gildas however mentions the wall of stone and it appears that any occupation of southern Scotland was either given up or left in the hands of the allied buffer states after a season or two of campaigning at the most. Any remaining outlying forts are finally abandoned and Hadrian’s Wall given rough and ready repair. AD: Scots and Picts take advantage of the weakness of the beaten and weakened Roman garrison with continual “raiding”. Efforts are made to shore up failing defences which Gildas (504-70) illuminates referring to the construction of: “a turf wall from sea to sea” at this time, possibly an attempt by the governor to re-commission the Antonine wall as a running barrier, if only as an obstacle to raiding and driving reived cattle. It has been suggested that a form of patrolling of the barrier (probably greatly different than the manned garrisons of the mid 2nd C) may have been undertaken by the allied states (or fledgling kingdoms) of southern Scotland formalised by Maximus.
AD: Civil war within the Roman empire as various contenders fight for supreme control. Clodius Albinus, governor of Britain crosses to the continent with most of the British garrison and is narrowly but decisively defeated at Lyons by Septimus Severus. Probable that Hadrian’s Wall is denuded of troops during this episode and that the Caledonians and Maetae (who can safely assume to have been in treaty agreement with Albinus) act in concert to take advantage of the situation following the death of Albinus. AD: Pliny the Elder (a reliable source) publishes his “Natural History” in which he claimed: “Nearly thirty years ago its (Britannia) exploration was carried out by the armed forces of Rome to a point beyond the neighbourhood of the Caledonian forest”. This may refer to exploration by naval landing parties. AD: Maintained in his appointment as governor, Agricola consolidates his hold in central lowland Scotland and pushes forward in campaigns in southwest Scotland. This is difficult territory that had been bypassed in his drive north along the east side of Scotland in previous seasons. Contemplation is given to an invasion of Ireland from the Ayr shoreline. A naval reconnaissance is made of the western seaboard. AD: Warfare in Scotland prosecuted for the Romans by the martinet General Ulpius Marcellus. Hostilities are not concluded till 184 when Commodus is acclaimed Imperator and takes the title “Britannicus”. An altar records a legionary vexillation based at Castlecary at this time while Mumrills may have been rebuilt. It is also possible Cramond and perhaps Carriden remained in continuous occupation through to early next century however by the mid 180s it would appear that all other Roman posts in Scotland without recourse to easy re-supply from the sea are given up as untenable.The geography of Scotland is distinguished by its Highlands and Lowlands, two primary regions that vary greatly in terrain and character. The Highlands, located in the northern and western parts of the country, are renowned for their rugged, mountainous landscapes. The tallest peak in the region and the entire United Kingdom is Ben Nevis, which stands at an impressive elevation of 4,413 feet. The Highlands also include the Grampian Mountains, a range that stretches from the southwest to the northeast and features numerous peaks above 3,000 feet. We stayed in a large holiday home, The Old School House, about 20 minutes walk from the High Street of Newton Stewart. It is located in a quiet residential area and has a whirlpool in the garden – luxury, especially after a rainy day on the road. AD: With Stillicho preoccupied on the eastern frontiers the British garrison acclaims as emperor Marcus, whom they murder then Gratian who shares a similar fate. He is replaced as emperor elect by Constantine III. Following the successful breaching of the Rhine frontier by swarms of Alans, Vandals and Suevi Constantine crosses to the continent and enjoys considerable success against these recent invaders as well as forces sent against him by the legitimate emperor Honorius. In 408 he sets up his permanent headquarters at Arles in southern Gaul, never to return to Britain. The best pubs in Dumfries & Galloway| A bar to highlight in Dumfries & Galloway is The Grapes in Stranraer, a popular pub and music venue. The owner is a huge country fan and often brings over acts from the American south and from all over Europe to play at the pub, and there are regular trad music sessions as well. Day 5: Dumfries & Galloway We chose to stay in two central locationsnear Melrose and Newton Stewart and did day trips from there. It is also possible to travel around the south road trip-style, i.e. changing accommodation every night or two. Distances are so feasible though, that this is not necessary if you prefer a more relaxed travel style.
Ayrshire is rich farming country, with fewer sights than its neighbours; almost everything of interest is confined to the coast. The golf courses along its gentle coastline are among the finest links courses in the country, while fans of Robert Burns could happily spend several days exploring the author’s old haunts, especially at Ayr, the county town, and the nearby village of Alloway, the poet’s birthplace. There are standing stones, grand houses and exotic gardens, quirky towns dotted with book shops and independent businesses, you can even visit Scotland’s version of the Avenger‘s New Asgard! There are many kid-friendly activities, ideas for romantic getaways and outdoor adventures waiting for you. You could for example seamlessly continue with my West Coast of Scotland itinerary by taking the ferry from Ardrossan to Campbeltown! If you have a few more hours and prefer to hike instead of more cultural/history stops (see below), you can also follow the steep but rewarding trail up to Loch Skeen. It leads through the Grey Mare’s Tail Nature Reserve, brings you even closer to the waterfall and into the wilderness of this remote hill range.
History
I spent one week exploring the hidden gems that are waiting for you in southern Scotland including historic abbeys and stunning coastlines, quirky small towns and rolling hills, ruined castles and exotic gardens. This is my best-of! You might also like: Responsible Tourism in Scotland – 14 Travel Tips for a Positive Impact 2. The South is Incredibly Diverse I also really enjoyed the cafe at Abbotsford House and the famous Ebbcarrs Cafe in St Abbs (Harbour, St Abbs). It’s famous for its locally caught crab and other seafood but also had a few vegan options. Day 1: Edinburgh to Melrose Explore this striking new land art that transformed a former coal mine into an incredible outdoor attraction. Today, you can visit Abbotsford House and wander the surrounding estate and gardens. There is an exhibition and a cafe at the visitor centre and an audio tour leads you through the ground floor of the house, including Scott’s impressive library and his intimate study.
The final stop of the day is Stranraer, a coastal town on the shores of Loch Ryan. You can walk along the refurbished pier and glimpse views of Arran and Ailsa Craig. But in recent times, the town has become increasingly well-known for its focus on music. AD: War in northern Britannia with massive legionary vexillations from those stationed in modern Spain and Germany arriving to make up for losses (presumably the ninth) disembarking at modern Newcastle. The matter was brought to a conclusion by governor Quintus Pompeius Falco. However, the manner in which it was concluded is not recorded. The region even has it’s own Route 66-style road trip route, the South West Coastal 300 which you could explore for days. We opted to spend three nights in this region, using a central home base in Newton Stewart. AD: Magnus Maximus, commander of the Roman Army in Britannia campaigns against the Picts and Scots, probably driving them (or their aristocracy) out of modern southern Scotland where they may have gained dominance. Maximus is popularly recorded as the forefather of federated “states” in southern Scotland with Galloway’s first ruler Antonius claiming dynastic descent from Maximus himself. Dumfries: Dumfries is the largest town in the region and a popular stop for my people visiting the south of Scotland. I would have loved to explore the blossoming vegan food scene – especially the vegan menus at Cavens Arms and Mrs Green’s. There are also many other things to do in Dumfries, including the Dumfries Art Trail, the Dumfries Museum & Camera Obscura and the Crichton Gardens. If you visit, you are in good company:Bonnie Prince Charlie, William Wallace and Robert theBruce have all spent time in Dumfries as well!There are 16 book shops in Wigtown – that’s one for every 62 inhabitants of this small bustling town. Most of them are located on Main Street and sell second-hand books – although each has a range of new releases too. We went to almost all of them and among my favourites were the giant Old Bank Bookshop, Well-Read Books, Byre Booksand ReadingLasses, which focuses on books by women. In 1825 Scott’s money problems reached crisis proportions after an economic crash bankrupted his printing business. Attempting to pay his creditors in full, he found the quality of his writing deteriorating with its increased speed. His last years were plagued by illness; in 1832 he died at Abbotsford and was buried within the ruins of Dryburgh Abbey. Traquair House Despite the rain, the drive from Kirkcudbright to Newton Stewart was glorious, especially the section of the SWC300 that leads right along the shore of the Solway Firth.
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