ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

Product Information

PAO has lower Noack Volatilty(Noack Rest determines a lube's evap loss at high temps) than the mineral based lower groups.

I cannot tell for sure, but it seems the slow leak is gone, but I also replace a few 1/2” cooling system hoses that were leaking.Joint between JF506E gearbox and IRD seems to be weak spot as well, might try to add some in the future. VW Type II/231 tintop, found in Albuquerque - drove until it was pointed out by management that the children might be killed in it.

What makes you think that Rubber suspension parts are made of the same elastomer as engine valve stem seals or rear main seals? You don't have to drive it for 5 straight hours but I would say that 15 minutes at minimum is reasonable. I particularly love the aroma of burning transfer case fluid being blown in my face when I turn on the CC system. I recently purchases mine used and it had a power steering leak and the usual o-ring leak behind the alternator bracket both of which stopped leaking in less than a week. Petroleum distillate rubber conditioners can temporarily soften rubber seals and then turn them to mush over time, thus causing leaks.I did have some drips under my pan but last week I switched to high mileage oil, so that may help with the leaking.

You sold that good, I bought a couple of bottles:) Watching youtube videos (NOT SC) and reading reviews makes me believe this aint just snake oil.Then you can drive it for small periods of time and eventually cumulatively to 5 hours so the full treatment is done. Thanks for your reply - that's the answer I was hoping to hear, as I'm considering using this product to address the modest leak I have on the alternator bracket gasket/o-ring, until such time as I can undertake a permanent fix. You can see in the attached photo is is running down the differential housing as the drive shaft spins. Regular oil changes are the best thing to do for your engines seals, if one develops a leak replace it, there is no point in blowing and weakening every other seal in the engine up like an elephants trunk for no reason. All engine oils have a chemistry in their DI package that swells engine seals to a certain percentage according to accepted industry standard tests.

I should warn you if you spray parts and hoses under the hood, once the engine gets hot the excess will burn up produce an unpleasant smell and smoke, better run the car for about 20 - 30 minutes outdoors with the hood opened and when the neighbors aren’t around.

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine. It's also good for rubber seals like o-rings, intake gaskets probably (wish I had known this when I changed my spark plugs), suspension bushings, and transmission seals. In addition I sprayed some of the rubber hoses and seals with ATP 205, Apparently it adds life to it by reconditioning dried hoses and seals (rubber only - no gasket) it is said that will not damage gaskets, but if they are not rubber it will not be of any benefit (stating the obvious). But after the specially persuaded me to try out this additive as the most if it does not work out the most I can still go ahead to overhaul my gear box.